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A brief general history and an eye opening walk along the High Street

This history is based on several works but principally on The Buildings of Clapham.

This excellent book, published by The Clapham Society and edited by Alyson Wilson, is available from Amazon.co.uk or from Wordworth Books, 120 Clapham High Street (please mention this Web site when purchasing it). The book contains fascinating details of Clapham on a street by street level. Well worth its £11.95 price tag.

This is a first attempt at producing an online history of the High Street. There may well be a few errors for which I apologise and some of the photographs could be improved upon. There are also a few points I would appreciate feedback on. If you spot any errors or wish to contribute any information please email. A big thank you to Stuart Humphryes for his fist hand information on the tram garages of Clapham.

Best wishes
Steve Homer -- founder ClaphamHighStreet.co.uk

You can trace the history of Clapham back well over a thousand years to a fairly insignificant ninth century collection of cottages on a hill. Over the next few centuries the huddle of cottages rapidly grew into a thriving Surrey village.

The original village of Clapham was centred on the area around Rectory Grove (to the north of the Old Town) and the original parish church stood on the site of the present St Paul's in that street. North Street was the main road leading into the village.

On the other side of the village lay what is now the Common which owes its existence to the poor quality of the soil there (since much improved). While the land around it was converted to agricultural use, the scrubby area that was to become the Common was shunned.

The existence of the High Street itself owes as much to Rome as it does to some ninth century hut dwellers. It is in fact an ancient "diversion" of the Roman military road Stane Street, which ran from London to Chichester. This road followed the line of Clapham Road and then onward along the line of Abbeville Road. Whether the road originally kinked here is not known, but the straight line would have taken it close to a shallow valley bottom that would have inevitably become boggy. Even the Romans, with their love of straight roads, must have quickly realised this was an unpromising line for their road. Sadly history does not tell us whether or not there were yellow diversion signs in latin, but thanks to a small stream the High Street is where it is today.

Whatever the case the main street from London to the South West has long followed its current High Street route. With quite modest houses dating from the middle and early 18th Century quite a way down the High Street (numbers 101 to 107 and 94 to 96) it is obvious that Clapham had become a significant village by 1700. (Enlargement had been speeded by the rush out from the city after the plague and the Great Fire of London in 1666.)

In fact by the late 17th century grander new houses had started to appear some way away from the village proper. These were the original Clapham yuppies, merchants and professional men who wanted to move out of the squalor of the city, but who still needed to be close enough to easily get into town to conduct business. Then, as now, the focus of the real money was in houses around the edges of the Common.

This trend really took off in the 18th century when many grand houses were built. (Sadly most of these were torn down to make way for later developments.)

In the 19th century, with the arrival of public transport, a new wave of development began with entrepreneurs developing whole new streets of houses for the gentry.

But the price of transport was still high. In the 1830s stage coaches were replaced by horse-drawn omnibuses but the fares were still out of reach of most ordinary folk. But in 1871, when the first horse drawn tram service arrived, "the common man" could afford the cost of transport to and from London. With the advent of 1900 the "tube" reached Clapham and the village had finally, and irrevocably, been cemented in as a part of London proper. It is perhaps no coincidence that Clapham experienced a significant downturn in the latter part of the 19th century just as it became accessible. The transformation from an exclusive suburb, to a more prosaic role was painful for the parish.

The 20th century has seen Clapham continue to transform. Most of the larger houses have now gone, with several smaller properties built in their place. The Second World War transformed the area and especially the High Street. The two huge entrances to the deep shelters are a blot on the landscape and significant bomb damage opened up many development opportunities at significant cost. (We will be developing a separate section on Clapham during the War, probably next year.)

If you would like to contribute to future history pages. Please get in touch.

Click here for an easy to print version of this page Coming soon.

A tour up and down the High Street reveals some remarkable buildings. Click on a picture for a larger version.

The East side of the street.


The tube station is beautifully designed but the setting - eek!

Clapham North tube station was opened in 1926 when the station's name was changed from Clapham Road to Clapham North (you used to be able to see a Clapham Road sign there -- is it still there? Let us know.)


Check out the old adverts if you have missed them.

Number 21-31, known as Wellington Terrace was built around 1830. These buildings are not that fantastic but bear wonderful reminders of the High Street's past through adverts painted onto the side of buildings. The fullest remains are on number 29 which reads - "Gramophone records. Largest stock of second hand music roll in London. The Music Roll Exchange".


A grand old building that used to belong to the people of Clapham.

Number 35, now used by the Royal Shakespeare Company for its rehearsals used to be the Clapham Public Hall, built in 1911. Given Clapham's lack of a decent performance space, it is a pity the council sold this out in 19?? (anyone know when?).


I think this is the most beautiful building on the High Street.

Number 47, is a stunning building that was the Temperance Billiard Hall which was completed in 1910. It is a very early example of a reinforced concrete building. It was used as a book storage facility for the Scripture Union and was tastefully restored in 1990 by Moxley, the architects who now own it.


There was another Barnardo's near the library.

Number 49 used to be Carter's Boys home and become a Dr Bernardo's home. Built in 1810, the building looks like two separate buildings but is in fact a single large detached house built around 1810. Number 51 is a later 18th century building with a new facade added around 1885. It was further refurbished in 1990. (No picture for this one, Nr. 51)


Nondo's 200 year old chickens! Surely not.

Numbers 53 to 59 are around 200 years old. Much remodelling work was carried out in 1889 and 1918.


It might be a gym soon but for now it is a hole in the ground.

95-97 Budgens (no more!). Used to be Clapham Grammar School, more recently a garage, then Budgens and now due to be converted into a sports club.


The hidden gems of the High Street.

101-107. The unseen jewel on the High Street. These two pairs of semi detached cottages linked by a shop on the ground floor date from 1760. Among the oldest properties on the High Street, they have survived remarkably unchanged.


Fine, late 19th century architecture.

125-131 Three attractive homes from 1886. Another three were sacrificed to deliver us .......


Fine modern architecture?

Sainsburys. What can you say? So much history and so little time. A horse tram depot was built here in 1885 and converted for electric trams in 1904. The sheds were badly damaged during the war and were rebuilt in 1950 as a bus garage. In 1958 the garage closed and two years later it was used by the Museum of British Transport, until 1973. From 1979 to 1987 it was a bus garage again until it ended its days as an indoor go-kart operation. Perhaps more importantly, the Globe, Clapham's very first picture house, opened here in 1910. A tiny establishment, with just 130 seats, it closed in 1915 when it already faced competition from three other cinemas.

All this history and more disappeared in 1996 when Sainsburys built their modern edifice which has quickly ceased to be an eyesore and is now a familiar part of the High Street. The video wall, which was the largest outside video wall in Europe when it was revealed, has never worked. If anyone ever sees all 20 screens working please alert the media!


Claphams biggest hole in the road.

At the end of the High Street is a little hint of our past. This was the original entrance to Clapham Common tube station but between 1940-42 it was converted into the entrance to a deep shelter to offer some protection against the blitz. (There is another entrance to the shelter further down the High Street near to Carpenter's Place.)


The West side of the street.


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182-188 This neo-Flemish building built in 1895 for the London and South Western Bank is notable not only for being a remarkably elegant purpose built building but also for being the first building in the High Street to have been lit by electricity. The power cable was extended from the Pavement the year the bank was built!


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Our latest addition - Woolworths and MFI! It was a great pity that a very interesting two storey building, built around 1810, was demolished to make way for this rather uninspiring building (which is at least one storey higher than promised). The building at 180 had fantastic terracotta dressings which had been added at a later date. Not a major architectural find but it added real charm to this part of the high Street. Not something you could accuse Galliard Homes' new addition of -- charm that is.


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146-152 is now Southside (although it seems to have changed its name again to the 146 Bar we think). This fantastic piece of nonsense was built in 1914 as the Majestic Cinema and once boasted its own symphony orchestra. It is not surprising the Globe, almost directly opposite, found it hard to survive. The Majestic could seat 3,000 compared to the Globe's 130. It was turned into a Gaumont cinema and inevitably ended life as a bingo hall. Was this the last cinema in Clapham and does anyone know when it showed its last movie?


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136-138 This is another of the old buildings in the High Street and it has a famous connection. Built in 1771, the widow of Captain Cook lived here from 1788 until her death in 1835. She had a hard life. By the age of 43 all five of her children had died and her husband had been murdered in Hawaii. (If anyone knows when she was born please email us.)


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130-132. For those of you waiting for Marks and Spencer to arrive in the High Street you are a bit late. The MacDonalds building was built for M&S back in 1932 in artificial stone. (Anyone know when M&S moved out and subsequent history here?)


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106 -108. The oddly angled corners on this 1830 building are probably for carrying advertising but there is no record any advertisements ever being displayed here (let us know if you know to the contrary).


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94 and 96 Little information but probably early 18th century. Possibly the oldest buildings on the High Street.


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50-82 A typical example of how Clapham High Street has "grown up". You can see quite grand semi detached houses which have been converted into a terrace by extra houses being built in the gaps around the 1890s. At a similar time the front gardens, which must have made the High Street look lovely, were built over to create shops. This type of development can be seen all up and down the High Street. Parts of this terrace are quite old. 56-58 and 64-66 are probably from around 1780. 50-52 were built around 1835 but were probably significantly rebuilt in the 1880s when Edgeley Road was cut through to the High street. Looking at these buildings from the rear, from Edgeley Lane, you can clearly see where buildings have been added between the original houses. Well worth a two minute detour.


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24-36 This superb late 18th century terrace has been significantly rebuilt over the years but it certainly would not look out of place in Kensington nor around the grander corners of Regent's Park. The stuccoed frontage with intricate cornice work can really only be seen now from the other side of the road. If you walk up a couple of steps at the Royal Shakespeare Company's rehearsal room you get a great view. They must have looked magnificent when they still had their front gardens. Again worth a short detour.


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18 Nice to know that the bar called the Railway has a solid lineage. The original tavern that opened here when this terrace was completed in 1868 was the Railway Tavern! 130 years of pulling pints in the Railway.


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12-16 These three properties from 1830-50 are all rather interesting if horribly run down at present. A typical example of the great buildings you can see on the High Street if you do but look.


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Cramer Court between numbers 10 and 12 has a surprising link with the history of cinema. From 1914 the former Chatham Club became the film factory of Cherry Kearton. His(??) output included films of African wildlife but most notably the 1914 war film The Whirlpool of War. The studio was taken over by Bertram Phillips who made the 1923 version of A School for Scandal. When he decided to move his studio into his home in Thornton Road, De Forest Phono Films (one of the first talkie studios in the UK took over).


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Clapham High Street officially jumps over Venn Street and makes a short march towards the Pavement and the Old Town. I would not bother mentioning this except for a little cinematic interest.

If you look at number 192-194 it does look rather grand to just be a corner shop. It has a rather fine tall classical facade finished in expensive ceramic tiles. This was supposed to be the entrance to the Coliseum Cinema in Venn Street where the Picture House cinema now stands. In 1910 the Electric Picture Palace had opened there on the site of a former stables. In 1919 a new magnificent cinema was designed, with a proposed entrance in the High Street, and surrounding buildings were purchased for expansion. However the company ran into financial difficulties and the proposed cinema never opened. The Coliseum would have had almost 3,000 seats. The Clapham Picture House, with its four screens has a capacity of only some 600 seats.

It is also worth briefly pointing out that the fourth Clapham cinema was at number 33, site of the current Burger King drive-through. This was the site of the Clapham Pavilion cinema which closed in 1957 after some 47 years of business.

 

 
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